Toho Antigua: The Oldest Restaurant

Toho Antigua:  The Oldest Restaurant

            

          The cochero was slumped in his horse-drawn carriage, taking a short power nap while waiting for passengers. I moved to the left, a little bit close to the horse, aimed and clicked my camera. I took shot of the calesa. That was when the cochero finally sensed and realized that we wanted to take a ride. 

            With the sound of the galloping horse made clearer by my Phonak hearing aid, the cochero asked as the traffic light turned red: "Saan po ba kayo?"  I answered in jest:  "Nandito kami sa likod mo."  But I quickly turned serious: "Dalhin mo kami sa T. Pinpin Street.  Sa Toho Restaurant."

The Welcome Landmark at Manila Chinatown.  Manila Chinatown is the oldest chinatown in the world. 'Toho Antigua is located along T. Pinpin St. which is near this welcome signage.

Experience the old calesa ride. There is a calesa terminal across Binondo Church.  There is another one at the right flank of Binondo Church. Haggle with the cochero.

Another calesa terminal near Sta, Cruz Church. Some cocheros allow passengers to get hold of the horse's reins for souvenir shots.

This lady knows the good horses plying the Sta. Cruz district.

Toho Restaurant is along T, Pinpin St,

           Rig and pedicab drivers, vendors and traffic enforcers know where Toho Restaurant is. It is one of the most popular restaurants in Binondo. Located at T. Pinpin Street near Escolta Street, Toho Restaurant is the oldest restaurant in the country, having been established in 1888. 

             It was some 8 years before the Cry of Balintawak and the execution of Dr. Jose Rizal at Bagumbayan in 1896 and some 10 years before the proclamation of a Revolutionary government in Kawit in 1898.  And Jose Rizal was one of its regular patrons. 

             Toho restaurant offers traditional Chinese dishes such as Pancit Canton, Lumpiang Shanghai, Beef with Ampalaya, Corn Soup, Camaron Rebosado and Fried Chicken. And the prices are affordable..

Kikiam and Crunchy Stuffed Camaron

Lechon Macau and Peking Duck on display entice passersby to dine in at the restaurant.

Halo is a mixture of intestines, liver and other pig's parts.

Non-airconditioned dining area at the ground floor

          While it is now officially called New Toho Food Center, I stick to its old name: Toho Antigua Panciteria. 

           During the American regime and even after independence was granted to the Philipppines by the Americans, Toho was one of three notable Chinese restaurants near T. Pinpin street, the other two being San Jacinto and Rice Bowl. San Jacinto is now located elsewhere while Rice Bowl closed shop many years ago. 

            If there is anything going for Toho nowadays, it is the historical value of the restaurant. Many family and corporate gatherings, celebrations and other social and political events were held at Toho Antigua.

The stairs leading to the air-conditioned dining area at the 2nd floor. In the 60s, when smoking was still allowed inside air-conditioned rooms, there was that combined smell of green tonic cologne, food aroma and cigarette smoke

In the 60s and 70s, this dining area was almost always filled to the brim.  During the BAA and MICAA days , the San Miguel Beermen under Coach Ning Ramos and the Utex Wranglers  and their supporters celebrated significant court victories dining here.

Old photo of Toho Antigua taken in 1954

Getting ready in case diners arrive in droves.

National hero Jose Rizal regularly dined at Toho Antigua Panciteria.

           The owners of Toho should start banking on the popularity of its number one patron, Dr. Jose Rizal, to drum up interest in the old resto.  

           A huge portrait of the national hero near the entrance would be an eye catcher.  

            And spicing up the menu would do wonders. Why not include items such as Padre Damaso's Soup #5?  Or Maria Clara's Sweet Green Peas with Shrimps?  Or Sisa's Nakakabaliw na Asado? 

             Or ask the guard manning the entrance to wear a Guardia Civil uniform instead of the standard blue and white. The heirs of Tai Tang can use their creativity.

Yang Chow Fried Rice

Beef with Ampalaya

Miki Bihon

Pinsec Frito or Fried Wonton

Camaron Rebosado

           As we were going down the stairs of Toho, several diners were on the way up. While the place apparently lacks the luster of the old Toho, patrons nonetheless keep coming back for the Chinese dishes that had given full satisfaction to diners of the 19th and 20th centuries.  

            And dining at Toho gives others the chance to roam the streets of Chinatown and the nearby Divisoria area. 

After dining at Toho, one can walk through the streets of Binondo.

Tikoy or Chinese rice cake

Assorted fruits for sale

Photo taken several days after the Chinese New Year

A cluster of fruit vendors

One of the many branches of Amo Hopia & Bakery

Cantaloupe or sweet melon

Star apple or kaimito

           I intend to dine again at Toho next month to try the Pata Tim and Asado. And to ride again the iconic calesa. To hear again the sound of the galloping horse. It takes me back to the old days.

Leave your car behind and take the LRT.

- Konted

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The Old Binondo Church

The Old Binondo Church

           

              History tells us that Ferdinand Magellan and his men discovered the Philippines on March 16, 1521. The might of the conquistadores  was represented by a sword and a cross. Their two-fold mission, in the name of the King of Spain, was to colonize the entire archipelago and, at the same time, spread Christianity.  Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, for his part, conquered and occupied Manila and, like in the other islands, started establishing Christian communities. The first step was to convert the inhabitants.

            At that time, there were many Chinese immigrants doing business in Intramuros and staying in a community called Binondo.  These immigrants were called Sangleys. They were allowed to stay there by Spanish authorities as a way of controlling and monitoring  the growing number of Chinese. These early ethnic Chinese intermarried with the local women and from this union, the Chinese mestizo or mestizo de Sangley was born.

            As the Spanish friars wanted to ensure that these Sangleys and their offsprings would continue practicing their new faith, a church was constructed in Binondo in 1596. It was called Binondo Church. Initially made of adobe stones, it had undergone several renovations and rehabilitations ever since.

            Binondo Church is now called Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz.  It was named after the first Filipino saint who was a resident of Binondo and had his training at the church.  It stands on a big lot bounded by Quintin Paredes St, Ongpin St. and  Condesa street. There is a big plaza in front of the church. It is called Plaza Calderon De La Barca.

           The ceiling of the church is painted with religious images in the same way that Sistine chapel in Italy is artistically painted. The windowpanes are also beautifully painted. Many weddings are solemnized in this historical church. It is near Escolta, near the commercial streets of Chinatown, near Divisoria. 

            The church represents Binondo's glorious past.  With the century old bell tower still standing proud, the bell rings at dusk as the faithful give thanks to the Almighty for a prolific day. At early morning of the next day, the doors of the church are opened again for devotees who seek divine guidance. Candles are lit and  prayers are said. They then dip their two fingers into the holy water and make the sign of the cross, feeling confident that God will answer their prayers.

- Konted

The Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch stands on Quintin Paredes St.  which is several meters away from Binondo Church.

Binondo Church is now known as Minor Basilica de San Lorenzo Ruiz.

San Lorenzo Ruiz was a Binondo resident and was active in church activities.

The old calesa or horse-drawn carriage is still a mode of transportation in Binondo. Waiting area is across Binondo Church.

The Cochero says: "Boss, mas maganda nakasakay kayo dito at iikot tayo Chinatown. "  Manila's Chinatown is the oldest Chinatown in the whole world.

P200 per ride around Chinatown for 3 passengers.  It is still negotiable.

Traffic enforcers control the flow of traffic in front of Binondo Church.   The plaza in front of the church serves as a roundabout or rotunda.

Plaza Calderon de la Barca is right across Binondo Church.  Shown above is the statue of San Lorenzo Ruiz.

Monument to WWII Chinese veterans

Jeepney waits for passengers in front of the plaza.

Binondo Church was destroyed during WWII.  Only the bell tower was spared.

View of Binondo Church from Ongpin St.

Area along Ongpin St. where calesas wait for passengers.

Statue of Roman Ongpin after whom Ongpin St. was named. It is on the left side of the church.

About Roman Ongpin

Inner main door of Binondo Church

The Crucified Christ near the entrance.

Area where devotees light candles

Church's interior

Hand painted ceiling of Binondo Church

The main altar

Statue of San Lorenzo Ruiz near the main altar

Interior of Binondo Church as taken from the main altar

Beautifully painted glass windows

Statue of the Sacred Heart near the center aisle

The suffering and crucifixion of Jesus Christ as painted on the ceiling.

Donations help a lot in the maintenance of the church.

Statues of three saints at the left wing of the church.

Station of the Cross

Statue of the founder of Opus Dei

Artistically designed glass window 

Statue of St Anthony

The glass casket of Jesus Christ

Upper right ceiling

Church balcony

Coins for the street children

Saying a short prayer

In deep prayer

A variety of colors

Rosaries for keeping count while praying

Small religious statues usually placed on top of tables or altars.

The Pasig River separates Intramuros from Binondo.